Alaska Shore Excursions: From Whale Watching to Totem Poles
- Kim Kurtz
- Oct 30, 2024
- 5 min read
An Alaskan cruise is really about embracing the raw, natural beauty of Alaska. Our ports of call were Juneau, Skagway, and Ketchikan. Despite our research, we found ourselves wandering these charming towns before diving into our planned excursions. Now that I’ve experienced it, here's my better advice for your own adventure!
Juneau: Whales and Wonders
When you disembark for a shore excursion in Juneau, it's just a 10-minute easy walk into town. On your way, don't forget to pet the statue of the beloved dog mascot, Patsy Ann. As you pass the Tramway station and cross the street, you'll find yourself surrounded by jewelry stores. So. Many. Jewelry. Stores. If you're hunting for a shiny souvenir, there are plenty at various price points. I always aim to support the local economy, so look for stores that proudly display "locally owned" or "Alaskan Made" signs. Juneau’s Trading Post and Caribou Crossings boast a vast selection of locally crafted items.
It was drizzly and gray the morning we explored the blocks around the port. The Mt. Roberts Tramway was operating, but the views were shrouded by clouds. If you’re not in the market for glittering souvenirs, follow the shoreline down Egan Drive and turn left at West 8th Street to behold the full-size bronze whale breaching in front of you! Afterward, consider lunch at the original Tracy’s Crab Shack, typically less crowded than the one near the Tramway but not open year-round. We dined at Twisted Fish and savored a delightful meal—yes, I had Alaskan King Crab! Delicious!
I highly recommend Juneau Tours and Whale Watching if that is on your shore excursion wish list. I booked privately through their website. Our 48-person boat was designed specifically for whale watching. As we left the dock, the drizzle ceased, and slivers of sunshine pierced through the gray. Soon the chorus began: “Spout at 1 o’clock! Spout at 9 o’clock!” We were amidst a pod of humpback whales, with "whale snot" all around us! The crew estimated we saw about 10 whales, including a mama and baby. It’s rare to see that many on a 4-hour tour, and the crew was as excited as we were! The end of August is prime time for humpbacks as they feast before heading to the Hawaiian waters.
Skagway: History and Husky Puppies
Skagway, the “Gateway to the Klondike,” is steeped in gold rush history, making it perfect for wandering. I found my souvenir, an ulu knife, at Kinses, a store with a large selection of Alaskan-made goods. They recommended lunch at Woadie’s—an almost shack-like spot with tables. Get there early to avoid long lines; the halibut fish and chips are fantastic, and we drooled over the sight of the King Crab legs!
In the afternoon, we embarked on the NCL shore excursion: Gold Mining, Sled Dogs, and White Pass Train. Panning for gold was challenging, but it became a fun competition, and I managed to collect more flakes than my son. My favorite part was the warm cookies for sale in the gift shop. On the same property, we learned about the Iditarod and Sled Dogs, gaining a newfound respect for those who compete in this grueling race. The highlight? Puppy snuggles! Holding those little furballs made the day even better.
The White Pass Train is hailed as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. Coming from the PNW, I wasn’t as wowed by the scenery as some, but it was still impressive! Our guide, Klondike Mike, provided fascinating historical details about the Klondike gold seekers and had an excellent repertoire of dad jokes. Evan kept busy on the observation platform with his camera, capturing great shots despite the less-than-ideal light conditions. Booking with NCL was a smart move as we got back close to boarding time without worrying about missing the ship.
Ketchikan: Bears and Totem Poles
Ketchikan quickly became my favorite port on this cruise. The town has a magical vibe, and I had no specific shore excursion plans except hoping to see a bear and Totem Pole Park. Too late I realized how expensive cabs or Ubers are in Alaska and how far apart these two places are in Ketchikan. I had figured out that the locals always have options for cruise guests. We lucked out in Ketchikan, finding a small van shore excursion headed to our desired spots for the price of one Uber ride!
Our guide, Juan, moved to Ketchikan as a young boy from California. He’s 75% Native Alaskan and shared fascinating stories about the local tribes, particularly the Tlingit (pronounced: KLING kit), Tsimshian (SIM she ann), and Haida (HIGH duh). The Tlingit have been in Ketchikan since time immemorial. The island is 78% wild forest, with wildlife far outnumbering people. We explored Herring Cove and saw a young bear unsuccessfully fishing but stealing a salmon from an eagle.
We headed to the other end of the 42-mile road to Potlatch Totem Park. It wasn’t Totem Bight State Historical Park (as I had assumed) But that is the gamble of spur of the moment tour purchasing and luck was with me this time! Potlatch Totem Park is privately owned by a local family. It has a collection of cedar totem poles, carving center and an authentic tribal house. Juan provided the stories of the totem poles and symbols in the tribal house. The area was quiet and peaceful as it occupied the space between the forest and the water. I highly recommend it. Plus there is a small antique car museum and a rare firearms collection that seemed impressive although I know little about such things. It included a Gattling gun, a gun design from Japan in the 1500's, and a one of a kind Remington rifle. I hope I remember those details correctly! There was a lot packed into 3 hours!
Ketchikan’s history is colorful, with Russian and European influences shaping the town in the early 1900’s. The Norwegians pushed all the gambling and prostitution to the corner of town which was extremely convenient for those looking to take part in such activities. Before long, Married Man Trail was packed down by many feet headed to Creek Street in the shadows. Dolly Arthur moved to Ketchikan in 1906 while in her early 20’s. She was instrumental in setting up the Creek Street red light district as prostitution and gambling were legal, although drinking was not. The brothels slowly shut down in the 1950’s and 60’s, but Dolly made her fortune. When she died in 1975, she was the richest woman in southeast Alaska. She donated her estate to the city for education. It’s fascinating how often brothels have funded education in the early days of this country. Seattle has a similar story of Lou Graham. I wish I had made time to see Dolly’s house which is now a museum.
I would have loved more time in Ketchikan, so I’m planning a return trip next year. It’s a short flight from Seattle, and rental cars and accommodation are available. This time, I’ll explore Creek Street and Dolly’s house in detail. See you there!
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